McQ AW13/14

Dashes of red and dark floral garden prints dominates the new McQ Autumn / Winter 2013-2014. 

Although with new prints all round, the smart yet sharp tailoring still remains with signature 3-piece suit in grey. The full lookbook by Roger Dekker & the best of its catalogue after the jump. 

All the items featured here will be available in-store from June. 

AW13/14 Trend 02 - Crop of Any Kind

Following the Bomber Jacket trend from SS13, it is only a matter of time when cropped jacket makes it way in. While few designers following their inspiration from the 1920s British men work-wear jacket featuring a soft lap, 3 button and out-stitch pockets, and some were inspired from the 1940s war women utility jacket (see below), cropped on/ just below the waist, features higher lapels, stitch-in pocket, and full length sleeves. As for AW13/14 which you'll see after, designers using the structure and adopt it into other categories such as capes, ponchos.

Cropped Worker Jacket: 

Christopher Raeburn (1,2), Louise Grey (3), Richard Nicoll (4), Erdem (5), Prada (6) 

Cropped Over-Coat

Fyodor Golan (1), Ashley Isham (2)

AW13/14 Trend 01 - Splatters of Sleeves

Instead of doing individual designers review, I decided to group them into trends.
First one of all, This season, we saw quite a lot of focus on sleeves - the way it drapes round the arms, the back seams, the length according to the shoulder. Remember, click on the image to enlarge.

Dolman Sleeve - seen in Antonio Berardi (1,2,3), Bottega Veneta (4), Marni (5)

 

1/2 Sleeve - seen in Maria Grachvogel, Ekaterina Kukhareva, Ports 1961

 

LCM DAY02: James Long

James Long

Comment: Thumb up for the high-waisted trousers surfacing finally! Gorgeous print per normal, slightly romantic gothic with its purple colour palette. Reintroducing subtle metallic is also very adventurous for an AW collection. Madly in love with long coats. They WILL be mine!

Reference: Inspiration from the fabric tones, oddness of print and John Waters' personal style... neat shapes that's playful, considered and confident. rubberised plaid mac that hangs in a simple and lpeasing shape. knit bomber acts as new version of cardi. double cuff for definition and comfort. marquetry techniques, special collab with Kurt Geiger

More pictures after the jump.

LCM DAY02: YMC

You Must Create
"Dead Inside"
Comment: Many silhouettes, selections of cut, handful of texture, but one codeword: Practical. From what looks like skater would wear to what I personally would wear (Smart casual with a twist). The dapper the better - the classic bright golf jumper are back on the spotlight (refer to the spade jumper). Alongside, the carrot fit chino are getting more carrot than ever (refer to the chino in turquoise) & also the boiler suit, with lots of zip detailing - interesting indeed, maybe influence by the recent onesie subculture.

More Pictures after the jump!
Reference: "The collection is nostalgic and looks back to 90s when YMC launched... spirit of post-punk and celebration of the era. beret representing freedom. Minimal with a touch of utility, smeared with punk attitude. wax wool, and leather trimmed covert coat, waxed, silk zip bomber. mohair sweaters, parachute chinos."

LCM DAY02: Nicole Farhi / Martine Rose

Nicole Farhi

Comment: The attention in detail is exceptional this season at Nicole Farhi, with a very subtle yet flattering colour palette, especially that blue wool overcoat is a must! Like others, losing the skinny trend, focusing more on good-dressings with slim fit. Prints, Tweed, Wooliees.

Reference: "Craftsmanship is a key focus... Tailoring takes the form of relaxed separates with heritage... Monochrome tweeds, navy and charcoal melange..."

Martine Rose

Comment: Extravagant per Martine Rose, saw her last season. The spirit still the same throughout her career so far. The grunge style mixing streetwear, but then bravely introducing the flared / oxford bag cut trousers. The best piece from the collection is the patchwork bomber jacket featuring Jack Daniel's logo.

Reference: "Martine took inspiration from her time spent in Jamaica, and the rites and rituals of the Rasta community... Elevation and status are key aspects of the community, via an attitude, an idea, almost a code of conduct... Function being a key to the collection. military references from Bates compliment, addition of peacoats. inspired by nobles status shown in layering furs. Ghetto Kings.

More Pictures after the jump. 

LCM DAY01: Craig Green

The coverage continues, we apologised for the delay. Don't forget that the finale of most shows we're covering are on our YouTube channel, and you can catch up from the show gossip via our Twitter too.

Now over to one of Harry's favourite designer.

MAN - Craig Green

Comment: Personally loves Craig Green, all from beginning when I saw his collection in Fashion East, with coverage too (Click Fashion Week). This season brought another surprise as he presented his collection via a runway show instead of a static, his wooden face mask had set the collection with a very high creativity bar. Matching patchwork knitwear, along with individual embellishment brought out the dark side of what clothing can really represents. Various cotton texture made the classic collection looks immaculate, especially with the matt trousers which I thought was linen alongwith worker jacket. Can't wait to see this collection in reality.  

Reference: "Taking his obsession with the interplay between light and dark to its most literal of outcomes... looks that appear disembodied through face coverings and abstracted with sculptures... Glitter and vinyl edging forming the sole embellishments..."

More pictures after the jump.

LCM DAY01: Fashion East / CP Company

C.P. Company
Reference: "Resumes originality of CP Company and interpreted in a modern manner... Garbardine wool fabric of English college coats and waterproof nylons... palette ranges from soft and sober tones of English landscape to turquoise, emerald green of American college casual style.

Fashion East

Meadham Kirchhoff - The Apocalypse  

Joseph Turvey - The 101 

Kit Neale - Chilling in my chippie shop

Maarten Van Der Horst - Rebel labelling

Bobby Abley - Space Crash-landed 

Nasir Mazhar - Chav Fetish

More Meadham Kirchhoff & Joseph Turvey after the jump.

LCM DAY01: Astrid Andersen / Agi & Sam

The MAN show, one of the most anticipated shows on the London Collections: Men schedule. Launched in 2005, by Topman and Fashion East to provide a platform for the original pioneering new talents, with few successors such as James Long, David David in the past.

Our LCM started off with their AW13/14 show featuring Astrid Andersen, Craig Green, and Agi & Sam, each brand and style stands alone from eachother and I personally loves Craig Green, with visiting his presentation last season in Fashion East as well. 

Astrid Andersen

Comment: Inspired by 90s basketball culture with its fonts and design. Nylon dominated with extreme fittings, with a dash of metallic, assembles an outstanding yet practical pieces. Velvet made an appearance too but in a tracksuit form, and of course with few printed shirts in sight. 

Reference: "Digital prints, fabrication and colour palette with delicate lavender and gold subverting black jersey and all-in-ones... Japanese silk jersey tees and basket tanks, nylon bombers"

Agi & Sam

Comment: I absolutely love Agi & Sam, personally would love to have few pieces from the collection as well. I named this "Frenchman in Neons" as featuring lot of classic fabrics alongside with updated cuts and finishing. The braveness of playing bold is very important in contemporary tailoring menswear! The first look was a jacket opening at the back instead of the front per norm! Contrast fabric sleeves as continuity from past seasons, but houndstooths rain jacket with contrast sleeves is exceptional. Choice of models was also brave, including different age men showing how versatile and comfortable their collection is. Also, I wasn't able to get a good picture of the shoes, but I'm seeing a leather / canvas soles coming through?

Reference: "'It's about subverting things that are traditional and British' says Agi & Sam... They've also broadened their way of using prints, playing with scale and placement across garments and accessories... They're doing their best to make sure its prepared for the British Winter; waterproofing their collection up to the eye balls."
amazin...

More after the jump.